After leaving the castle in Beynac, Raven and I drove the short distance to the parking lot of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle. The castle was closing in a short while and we were in a hurry to get to our lodgings.
We will definitely have to return and dedicate more time to this fascinating place. The castles, the river, the winding roads, and the beautiful communities dotting the landscape were hooks for the future.
Pulling into Pay-l’Eveque, the first thing I looked for was a grocery store so I could buy some laundry detergent. Being another medieval town, I was lucky to find a small convenience store which was set to close in fifteen minutes. Although the shop-keeper could speak no English, I was becoming somewhat comfortable asking for help in my stilted French. All I mentioned was “lave mes vetements” and I was brought to the isle which housed the laundry detergent. Bingo!
Flooded with relief that Raven and I would stock up on clean clothes for the next couple of days, we proceeded to our AirBnb location. Olivia met us at the door of her home and escorted us to our section of the house. She was kind enough to give us some ideas for dinner and even insisted on doing our laundry for us!
After relaxing for a couple of minutes, Raven and I set off in search of the much needed food. We had no idea how difficult this was going to be! Because this was during the off-season, this medieval village did not have every restaurant open every evening. They seemed to have staggered days of operation. After we checked out one pricey spot, we decided to drive to the local pizzeria. We found it quite easily, parked, and approached the entrance. We did not see that the restaurant was closed so we turned the handle, walked into the shop and were greeted with the scent of possibly the best smelling pizza I have ever encountered. My stomach immediately grumbled as did Raven’s. The cook behind the counter turned to us with surprise and informed us he was closed. Was he cooking his own dinner? Was this shop attached to his house? We will never know. It was torture to return to our car with an empty stomach.
Raven and I returned to the car and drove back to the main square of the town and decided to set off through the streets. Surely we would find something? I need to clarify that this beautiful town is on a hill on the bank of a river. We wound our way down through the maze of stone-cobbled streets and by the time we reached the bottom only one word described us: hangry (the cross of being angry and hungry). It was with pure relief that we sound a tavern on the river’s edge. Raven and I were also immediately relieved to see something we recognized on them menu: a cheeseburger.
Again, because we were out of the busy urban areas, the amount of English amongst the population was quite minimal. I used my paltry French to order two hamburgers, a coke, and a carafe of water. We had been told not to drink the water in France, but that was once piece of advice we were happy to ignore. The water was fine and refreshing. The burgers arrived on croissant buns and Raven and I held our conversation to a minimum while we enjoyed our “comfort food” from home.
The walk to the car was steep but needed. Once back in our AirBnb, Raven went quickly to sleep and I wrote an entry for my blog.